Priya Sengupta
From the pink-washed alleys of Jaipur to the golden dunes of Jaisalmer and the lake palaces of Udaipur — a complete guide to experiencing Rajasthan at its most regal.
Rajasthan is India at its most cinematic. No other state packs so much history, colour, and sheer visual drama into a single journey. We spent 10 days crossing the desert state from east to west — and came back with a hundred photographs and one overwhelming feeling: we need to return.
Start in Jaipur. The Hawa Mahal at golden hour, when the latticed sandstone glows amber, is one of those sights that makes you understand why people fall in love with India. Spend a full day at Amber Fort — walk up rather than taking the elephant ride, and you'll see the full fortification unfold above you. The Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace) inside is extraordinary in candlelight.
Pro Tip: Book the Amber Fort sound and light show in advance — it sells out during peak season (October–February). The narration is surprisingly good and the fort looks extraordinary lit up at night.
The overnight train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer is itself part of the experience — you wake up to the Thar Desert stretching to every horizon. Jaisalmer Fort is one of the last living forts in the world, with families, guesthouses, and restaurants inside its 800-year-old walls. The Patwon Ki Haveli with its five ornate merchant mansions and the Jain temples inside the fort are genuinely awe-inspiring.
The camel safari to Sam Sand Dunes is a tourist staple for good reason. But the real magic happens after the sunset crowds leave — if you camp overnight, the Milky Way above the dunes is the finest natural light show in India. We used a local operator from Jaisalmer town rather than booking at the dunes, and the price was a third of what the on-site camps charge.
Udaipur is where Rajasthan softens. The City Palace rising above Lake Pichola, the Lake Palace Hotel floating in the middle of the water, the evening boat ride with the Aravalli Hills glowing behind the ghats — it is genuinely one of the most romantic settings in the world. Spend time in the old city lanes around Jagdish Temple, where local life continues at a pace entirely indifferent to the tourists.
October to February is the golden window — cool enough for fort walks and desert nights. March is still manageable. April onwards the heat becomes punishing. Budget at least 8–10 days for a Jaipur–Jodhpur–Jaisalmer–Udaipur circuit. Private car hire for the state is more flexible than trains, though the overnight Jaipur–Jaisalmer train is worth doing once for the experience.
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